Do you have an owners manual to tell you for sure what the first light means?  The one with the triangle and circle.

You are very close.  That first light is the DSC, dynamic stability control.  It usually flashes on and off whenever you drive aggressively (hmmm, can't imagine how I'd know that ) and the DSC system kicks in and causes the engine power to get electronically modulated so as not to break the back tires free.  There is a little button on the center console in my car, just in front and to the left of the shifter with the same acronym printed on it.  Pressing this button causes that light to get illuminated permanently and switches the DSC system off allowing you to smoke those expensive rear tires of yours!

Right now, my car is experiencing a similar problem, of sorts.  When starting the car cold, it works like a champ.  However, stopping and restarting the engine once it's warm causes something strange to happen to the throttle by wire/engine management software.  After restarting, every time I let the clutch out in first gear while at a full stop, the engine RPM's drop 5-600 RPM often stalling the engine.  Then it jumps up and accellerates somewhat normally.  I say somewhat, because it feels like it's about 60% of what I'm used to.

My check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago and has stayed on - pretty much coinciding with when this problem started happening.  So I sent away for a Peake R5 fc something or other engine analyzer.  Just got it yesterday, so I will post my results shortly once I get my hands dirty.

I'll also write up a review of this device and let you all know how it works.

Well, preliminarily, the Peake code/reset tool gets a thumbs up.  I will write up a more formal evaluation later and post it to the lounge/paddock area since there isn't specifically a tool review section.

One thing I forgot to mention right off, the very first thing you should check if you are having any kind of electronics problems is your battery.  All of the electronics in our cars are extremely sensitive to the slightest fluctuations in battery power, and could easily be sent into chaos when the battery power gets low.  Quick way to check, if your battery has a little round sight glass on the top is to look in there and make sure it is green.  Black means undercharged, and yellow means you gotta change the battery.

The best test, of course, is to put the leads of a multimeter/voltmeter across the poles of the battery and check voltage (engine off!).  Standing voltage should be 12.6 or higher.  Anything less is not gonna be good for your sensitive electronic components.